© Richard Gonzalez

Vercors roads

Welcome to the stunning Vercors region, where deep gorges, dizzying cliffs and cascading waterfalls create a breathtaking backdrop for an unforgettable journey.

Between Villard-de-Lans and the Royans region, the roads carved directly from the rock offer panoramic views that will leave you in awe. These historic routes, which connect the mountains to the plains, are not only emblematic of the Vercors but also a testament to the ingenuity that has opened this majestic landscape to the modern world. As you navigate these twisting roads, prepare for a journey filled with natural wonders, charming villages and the serene beauty of Isère’s rugged terrain.

Embrace the adventure that awaits on the Vercors roads!

On the northern edges of the Vercors plateau, the roads linking the mountains to the plains have become emblematic. They bear witness to a relatively recent effort to open up the Vercors to a more modern world and to develop local agriculture.

 

Écouges Canyon

© Richard Gonzalez

It all began in the mid-19th century, when the Grenoble to Villard-de-Lans link via Sassenage was created.

From this point onwards, discussions turned to tunnelling the Grands-Goulets road on the Drôme side, directly through the cliff face. A monumental task, completed in 1854 without the safety regulations we have today, it paved the way for even more dangerous projects in Isère. These included the construction of roads through the Bourne gorges between 1860 and 1872, followed by similar feats in the Nan and Écouges gorges from 1882 to 1889.

Following the twists & turns

These dizzying routes guide us through an extraordinary landscape, offering a journey like no other.

Untamed nature constantly enchants the visitor who sets out to explore these routes which offer a series of picturesque stops along the way. While dramatic rock formations dominate the scene, water remains a constant companion. The Bourne River, which rises from the Lans-en-Vercors plateau, meanders through the region. From Villard-de-Lans, its course alternates between moments of turbulence and tranquillity, shaped by both the natural gradient and the influence of hydroelectric developments.

© Richard Gonzalez
© Richard Gonzalez
© Richard Gonzalez

Fishing in paradise

© Richard Gonzalez

The Bourne is also a paradise for fly-fishing enthusiasts. The Vercors plateau is renowned for its abundant trout, which are found on the menus of many of the region’s restaurants. We meet several anglers, who are more than happy to embrace this communion with nature, even though the fish didn’t seem to be biting that morning.

A festival of cliffs

The road winds and twists through low tunnels carved into the rock. With narrow lanes and sharp turns, we must drive cautiously. The bikes coming uphill are faster than us.

The charming village of La Balme de Rencurel offers our first glimpse of the sky, before we navigate another series of high-up tunnels that momentarily draw us away from the winding Bourne River.

© Richard Gonzalez
© Richard Gonzalez

The road eventually widens and opens out onto a vast panorama of cliffs and corbels.

Facing the village of Choranche, the Bournillon cirque imposes its ochre wall, flanked by the high waterfall of Moulin Marquis.

Two reasons (at least) to stop off at Choranche

  • Above the village of Choranche, taking a break at its famous grotto is a must. This breathtaking underground theatre, with its natural sculptures and flowing water, is brought to life by an enchanting sound and light show.
  • Two kilometres before reaching the cave entrance, the Cabane Café invites you to pause for a picnic. Here, you can create your own lunch basket from a selection of organic and locally sourced produce, including the renowned trout rillettes and ravioles de Royans. Then, enjoy your meal in one of the charming wooden nooks set within the lush, shaded 8,000 m² site.
© Richard Gonzalez

Suspended houses

At the very bottom of the gorge, the picturesque village of Pont-en-Royans brings us back to civilisation

© Richard Gonzalez

Pont-en-Royans, with its colourful old houses suspended above the River Bourne, is a must-visit, especially for its wonderful bathing spots, although the emerald green waters can be a bit chilly.

The village is also home to a unique Water Museum, the only one of its kind dedicated entirely to the liquid element so vital in the Vercors.

© Richard Gonzalez

Wooded territory

Our journey is long and we find ourselves retracing our steps a few kilometres to reach the village of Presles. Perched at the top of a narrow road, bathed in summer sun, the village unveils charming, traditional farmhouses.

With its Mediterranean ambiance, the cicadas are in full swing at the height of summer. The maquis and limestone outcrops along this stretch of road lend it a distinct Luberon vibe…

The peaceful village of Presles serves as one of the gateways to the Coulmes National Forest. This expansive wooded area, nestled between 900 and 1,300 metres in altitude, welcomes visitors year-round for both sport and relaxation. As you venture deeper into the forest of beech and fir trees, the temperature drops and the air feels refreshingly pure. It’s the perfect place to truly breathe and unwind.

© Richard Gonzalez

The Nan gorges: breathtaking

Just north of the Coulmes forest, the quaint village of Malleval-en-Vercors has become one of the most sought-after Nordic skiing spots in the Vercors in winter. From here, we head back down the Isère valley on the day’s most sensational route.

This narrow ribbon of tarmac carved into the edge of a perfectly vertical cliff overlooks the Nan gorges and, in the background, the foothills of the Chambarans.

It feels as though we’re being carried away by this sublime, cinematic landscape. Our very slow pace over these three suspended kilometres reflects both our awe and a certain apprehension about encountering another vehicle.

© Richard Gonzalez

Les Écouges, a destination in its own right

A few kilometres through the walnut trees between Cognin-les-Gorges and Saint-Gervais, and it’s back on to the climb in the Vercors.

A final adrenalin rush through forests, waterfalls and canyons takes us to the Écouges nature reserve. The geological and biological wealth of the region, criss-crossed by numerous footpaths, encourages us to return soon.

Les Écouges is a destination in its own right, offering exceptional opportunities for hiking and nature discovery.

© Richard Gonzalez

The gentle soul of the Vercors

After so many rugged and steep landscapes, this gentle terrain welcomes us like a kind soul.

© Richard Gonzalez

This one-hundred-beats-per-minute day ends in the heart of Rencurel village, beneath the shade of a chestnut tree on a hotel terrace. We watch as the mountains soften, their peaks rounding in the fading light.

Fancy having a go at caving?

Shortly after the Valchevrière bridge, a group of young tourists, wearing red overalls and head torches, emerge from a cave on the banks of the Bourne river. Supervised by instructors, they have just had their first caving experience.

“It was fantastic. An incredible feeling. But you mustn’t lose your way down there, it’s full of galleries.” they exclaim.

The Vercors is also a kingdom for caving enthusiasts, offering sites for all skill levels. Welcome to the centre of the earth.

© Richard Gonzalez

Photo gallery

Pêche dans les Gorges de la Bourne © Richard Gonzalez